Architectural Time-Lapse Photography

September 24, 2014 by  
Filed under Featured, Lessons, News, Photo shoots

Architectural, Monumental and Landscape Time-Laps Photography; without the use of flashes / strobes Here the The antique Greek amphitheater in Taormina Sicily shoot with time laps photography technique  Photo: Ami Elsius

Architectural, Monumental and Landscape Time-Laps Photography; without the use of flashes / strobes
Here the The antique Greek amphitheater in Taormina Sicily shoot with time laps photography technique
Photo: Ami Elsius

 

Architectural, Monumental and Landscape Time-Laps Photography; without the use of flashes / strobes

With the camera placed on a sturdy Manfrotto tripod I kept shooting one frame every few minuts; before, during and after sunset…only changing the settings slightly as it got darker and darker.

I picked about 6 photos,  all where a different element had the best light; in one the sky looked the best, in another photo the greek theatre was best lit, in another one I liked how you could see the street lights glowing, in another one the sea  etc.   I then selected the different areas in each photo and pasted them together in layers in photoshop…making sure the edges were softened and blended.

 

 

 

 

Before photo, used as the base photo

Before photo, used as the base photo

 

 

Time-Laps photography versus HDR (High definition range) 

With time-laps photography you can get amazing results which you would never be able to get with just shooting at one specific time. HDR (High Definition Range) which takes 3 photos with very short intervalls; one slightly under-exposed, one exposed just right and the third photo a bit over-exposed…and then merges them together ( many cameras and smartphones have built in program that automatically merges them together to one photo) will never be able to produce a similar result.

 

 

Some of the sky elements were used from this photo

Some of the sky elements  and the the contrast of the mountain (Vulcano Etna) were used from this photo

IMG_9501

From this photo I used the streetlights

 

 

 

 

 

 

Architectural, Property, Real-Estate and Hotel Time-Laps Photography; using handheld strobes / flash light

When you are shooting for a client or have permission to enter the property you are shooting and it is not gigantic; I would suggest you light it with hand held strobes /flashes …it makes a huge difference. Lit in the right way the end result will look so much more appealing and your client will be a lot more happy the if you just used ambient light. Scroll down to learn how

 

Architectural, Property, Real-Estate and Hotel Time-Laps Photography; using handheld strobes / flash light  Here a Photo from Vendicari in Southern Sicily, shot for Italian Rentals 4U  Photo: Ami Elsius

Architectural, Property, Real-Estate and Hotel Time-Laps Photography; using handheld strobes / flash light
Here a Photo from Vendicari in Southern Sicily, shot for Italian Rentals 4U Photo: Ami Elsius

 

 

When

As with most time-laps photography it is best to do it just before, during and just after the sunset or sunrise. Often the house itself will look the best just before sunset and the sky just after sunset with some golden-pink clouds if you are lucky. Pools are often very nice just at sunset when you can get some nice reflections in the water. I normally wait till sunset or just after to bring out my flashes/strobes as if it is to bright outside you won’t see much difference.

Equipment

With all time laps photography it is important that you have a sturdy tripod and that you don’t touch your camera while shooting. The best is to hook it up to a computer andy shoot tethered. 1 or 2 hand held strobes /flashes remotely controlled. To start off it can be good to have an assistant that will press the triggar while you go around and fire the flashes where you want more light. I often use colored gels on the strobes / flashes to match the light temperature of already occurring light sources. I often use a gel with a light bulb temperature or make a mix between light pink and soft cool yellow to get more of a dusk or dawn look.

Painting with light

Lighting a building/ property/ garden. Think of all parts of the property, garden, pool, surrounding areas that need extra light and plan your tour as effectively as possible to take as little time as possible. Go inside the building and light every window from the inside, go outside and light the building itself and then focus on the garden/garage/park/pool/driveway etc.  Remember that it is better to take to many photos of different light situations rather than the opposite; you have much more options when you have to create your one final shot with all your layers later. It would be terrible it you had it all right part from the main door or a part of the wall that looks totally dark and dull. The end result has to look harmonious and realistic.

 

IMG_4080 IMG_4159 IMG_4261

These first photos are example of 3 different light situations, without added strobe light.

 

 

 

Below you can see how I’ve been running around painting the house and garden with light. I took a total of 40 photos with different light and used about 25 that I merged in to the last final photo.

IMG_4238 IMG_4221 IMG_4213 IMG_4192

How to put it all together

Choose one photo as your base photo, preferably one before the sunset or after the sunrise where everything is well exposed…and without andy strobe/flash light, and make a copy of it. Do not make any adjustments in curves or levels (contrast, light temperature, shadows etc).

In photoshop or the program of your choice, open one layer at the time, cutting out the area you are interested in and past it on your base photo.

Feathering your selected area before cutting it can save you a lot of work later.  As with all type of painting, may it be on canvas, make up on a models face or as now, painting with light in Photoshop…BLENDING IS VERY IMPORTANT!

You don’t want to see any edges from your layers in the final image. Keep adding new cut outs in new layers, blend and so on and so forth.

When you have all layers in place you flatten the image and start to adjust the curves; light, contrast, saturation, temperature etc. If you have not used colored gels on your flashes/strobes to mimic the already occurring light, you will have to adjust your ”strobe/flash images” light temperature before you cut and paste.

Once everything is in place and you have done your light/contrast/temperature/saturation adjustments you can then start to do your spot removal if needed, remove or change unwanted things and finally cut or align your photo.

Good luck!

 

Architectural, Property, Real-Estate and Hotel Time-Laps Photography; using handheld strobes / flash light  Here a Photo from Vendicari in Southern Sicily, shot for Italian Rentals 4U  Photo: Ami Elsius

Architectural, Property, Real-Estate and Hotel Time-Laps Photography; using handheld strobes / flash light
Here a Photo from Vendicari in Southern Sicily, shot for Italian Rentals 4U Photo: Ami Elsius

 

As you can see, the end result with Time-Laps Photography is much better than any one single frame shot at any one time.

If you  haven’t already

Nude photography; inspiration

September 8, 2014 by  
Filed under Lessons, News

 

To grow and develop as a photographer you got to feed your inspiration, try new things, experiment and keep being curious. Finding your style, can take time: It is made up of your personality, preferences, experience and knowledge.

There are as many different ways to shoot nudity as there are bodies.

What is considered to be sexy with the body varies from person to person, from continent to continent and from time to time. As for the female body a lot of people would say breast and bottoms, followed by legs and the waist, but I have met people that find the neck, feet, diaphragm, ears, the back, sexual organ and shoulders the most attractive part of a female body.

Some like it model thin, some like it curvy, some like it very big, others prefer a strong athletic body. You can find people that gets off on bodies with amputated arms and legs, that want a lot of body hair, that prefer different coloured skins, with or without freckles. The body come in different, shapes sizes and colours…but if you think about it…it doesn’t really change all that much.

It’s funny, dogs for instance that comes in all types of colours, textures, shapes and sizes are often considered nice and cute no matter what. Or take a dolphin with a larger fin, smaller eyes or longer nose, is just as beautiful to us as an “average dolphin”.  But when it comes to humans….the slightest variations can be interpreted as very ugly or very beautiful.

Don’t care about the trends, simply capture whatever floats your boat.

 

It might be good to pause and ask yourself what you would like to create, express, experiment with.  Sexy, romantic, bold, graphic, documentary….there are many ways to portray the naked human body.

 

Get inspired from what some other photographers have done.

 

Enjoy!

 

Edward Weston

 

Man Ray

 

Ruth Bernhard

 

Herb Ritts

 

Helmut Newton

 

Peter Lindberg

 

Richard Avedon

 

Gregory Colbert

 

Sally Mann

 

Jock Sturges

 

Joyce Tenneson

 

Annie Leibovitz

 

Mary Ellen Mark

 

Robert Mapplethorpe

 

Patrick Demarchelier

 

Jeanloup Sieff

 

Thierry Le Goués

 

Terry Richardson

 

Nobuyoshi Araki

 

Davide La Chapelle

 

Jan Sudek

 

Hope you are inspired

 

 

Nude photography lesson one, back to basics

September 6, 2014 by  
Filed under Lessons, News

Nude naked and undressed

How natural is it to be nude?

This photo tutorial actually came about as a response to all the male amateur photographers that have asked me how start taking nude photos, how to get hold of models. I also saw it as an opportunity to educate and help hinder future model abuse from photographers. I personally know and have met many booth male and female models that have been exposed to various degrees of abuse from photographers.

 

Before getting in to the hands on practical stuff I would like to get back to the basics and address some primary things that are not talked about at photo school or mentioned in the photo magazines.  You need to first understand where you are coming from to be able to identify where you want to go and how to get there.

You have a huge responsibility as photographer, whatever level you are on. There are unfortunately a lot of photographers that inflict suffering and insecurities… and sometimes even sexually abuse their models…without even realizing it

 

By understanding yourself and your models better, you will be able to establish a relaxed atmosphere and a platform of trust, from where you can be infinitely creative…without hurting anyone.

 

Even though all of us start our journey here on earth naked, fact is that most people have a charged relationship to nudity. …Booth their own and others.  It normally stems from the type of family, society and religion you had in your childhood and what type of experiences you had about nudity. A person that grew up in a nudist family will often  have a far more relaxed attitude about nudity than a person that never saw a naked body in their childhood.

Your relationship to nudity often stems from the type of upbringing you have had.

 

 

Photo: Huỳnh Công Ú

Huỳnh Công Út, known professionally as Nick Ut, born 1951 in French Indochina, took this photo of  9-year old Vietnamese girl Phan Thị Kim Phúc who was running toward the camera to flee a South Vietnamese napalm attack on the Trảng Bàng village during the Vietnam War, year 1972 . Despite the conservative times of the early 70-ties especially  in the US…. The photo was at first  rejected by an editor at AP  (Associated Press) because it was showing a naked girl front on…..did not only made the headlines, it turned out to become of the most important photographs in photojournalistic history and has won the  Pulizer Prize.

 

It shows that a great photo, no matter how shocking or provocative it might be,  will at some point probably  get recognized and accepted….maybe even praised, … if the cause/issue/subject is important enough and stirs enough emotions that is.

(Right after he took the photo he brought the girl to the hospital…she now lives in Canada and they are still in regular contact.)

 

 

Nudity can evoke a myriad of different feelings and associations in the observer

From freedom, joy, back to basics, feeling at one with nature to feelings of vulnerability, physical complexes and insecurities, to sexual feelings and fantasies.  It can remind you of things forbidden, maybe suppressed feelings and desires or even fear and repulsion, sin and evil.

Not everyone assiciate nudity with freedom and the outdoors

 

 

The sight of a naked female body often arouses sexual feelings in men and both sexes can easily appreciate the beauty of the female curves.  As for women, the male body can often be perceive as unattractive, threatening or even funny in photos.

I can easily take flattering photos of any woman, but find it much more challenging to portray the male body in a way that I find attractive. Old fat and hairy is by many considered to be unattractive, but for my dear Brazilian male fiend (which I can mention is commonly regarded as very handsome by booth sexes) these type of men are the sexiest, most attractive and desirable…the bears!

For women, the male body can often perceive as unattractive, threatening or even funny in photos.

 

 

The flasher is forcing his (almost alwas male) nudity  on to others.  He is using his naked body  to  inflict fear, feel in control and superior. Very often, contrary to common belief the flasher is often a rapist as well.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nudity is a powerful tool to get your message across, it always attracts attention.

 

Nudity as a means to enlightenment. Yoga, spirituality, liberation, freedom, shedding material things and breaking free from the idetification with clothes, belongings and masks. Also experimentation and group belonging

 

 

 

Some peoplego about everyday life  totally naked…like nudists/naturalists and certain tribes.

 

Others just take their clothes off when they go to work; here you have photo models, a prostitute, porn actors, two different types of art models, the bodybuilder…in this photo the legendary Arnold and last but not least the crusher

 

 

 

Some people are just looking for attention, to do a dare, be brave or naughty…nudity in public gets reactions

 

 

 

Nudity in art has existed for as long as mankind itself. Photographers like like Spencer Tunik and David Blasquez has taken it to another level and uses the naked body to make complex installations.

 

 

 

 

Sometimes nudity is used in advertising, to provoke, stand out and sell more

 

 

 

Naked celebreties on magazine covers often creates discussions, publicity and extra numbers purchased

 

 

 

ATTITUDE, How do you feel about nudity in general? Are you comfortable being naked at home by yourself? What about being naked with your family, in front of your children or partner? In public change rooms and showers?  Have you ever been to a nudist beach?

How would you feel being the only person naked surrounded by dressed people? For some it is a dream… for others a nightmare.

How do you feel when you are dressed in front of a naked person? Uncomfortable, comfortable, aroused, in control, powerful, or wanting to also get your clothes off?

Think about how your upbringing has affected your view on nudity and sincerely ask yourself if you have a healthy and relaxed relationship to nudity. It’s ok if you don’t…most people don’t, but to be aware of it is the first and most important step. Once you know that you have an issue with nudity, you can work on improving it and start from where you are actually at.

 

INTENTION, Once you have identified how you feel about nudity and your thoughts about and relationship to it, you can then start to ask yourself why you want to take nude photos. Be as honest as possible even though it might be hard to discover that what  you really feel and think deep down, doesn’t always correspond to how you want to to be…or the idea that you and others have about who you are.

 

RESPONSABILITY, Everyone has their story, their background, issues and hang-ups. What you might think is fun and exiting can be uncomfortable to your model. You might get sexually aroused while your model gets scared or disgusted. Be as open and transparent with your model as possible when planning the shoot and always check with him/her that they understand what you want and if he/she is comfortable with it. Show photos for your model during the shoot so that he/she knows what’s going on and can see how it’s turning out. I always try to create as a relaxed and safe environment as possible, keep showing them what the photos look like and making sure that they are comfortable. Many of my  models have asked to take their clothes off  themselves, without me having asked them, because they feel comfortable, like how the photos turn out and would like to have some nice nude photos of themselves. For most of my nude models it was their first time naked in front of a camera.

 

I will round it up for this time, hope I  got you to reflect a bit…or a lot.

 

 

 

Understanding and working with natural light

September 3, 2014 by  
Filed under Lessons, News

 

Using sunlight with natural and artificial light shapers.

 

All photos Ami Elsius

 

•Look, and plan for the best light rather than the most beautiful location…good/beautiful/interesting light is crucial to get great photos

 

•Nature produces infinite possibilities of lighting situations, learn how to take advantage of that

 

Where to find and how to use commonly occurring light shapers:

 

*A light shaper or filter is that which goes between the light source and the camera; in this case the sun…and changes the intensity, direction, shape, pattern, softness, hardness and colour temperature of the light… and in particular the shadows it throws.

 

Examples of naturally occurring light shapers and filters are

 

Produced by nature:

•Clouds

•Foliage, trees, branches

•Caves

•Mountains and rocks

•Spider webs

•Fog

•Mist

 

 

 

Man made:

•Windows

•Ports, gates, doors

•Bridges

•Buildings

•Garages

•Roofs

•Smog

 

“And of course there are hundreds of different light shapers made especially for photography: that you can buy or make your self…but I save that lesson for another day. “

 

 

With a bit of planning you could get photos taken in natural light (the sun as only light source) with a “studio feel” to them; that look as they were taken using professional lights.

 

 

Once you understand the naturally occurring lighting conditions around you…and learn how to use them to your advantage, it will be much easier to move on to working with man made light sources… like flashes and continuous lights.

 

 

I will show you some examples to get you inspired:

 

Light entering from a window on the left, Mauritius

 

Narrow light from a castle window with heavy curtains, Gunnebo slott Sweden

 

Narrow light from a castle window with heavy curtains, Gunnebo slott Sweden

 

 

This photo is taken at the Royal Danish Operahouse, with natural light coming from huge windows

 

 

Late afternoon under a boat in Koh Pangan Thailand

 

Photo studio with windows to the left

 

same studio, same light but closer to the window and with a darker background

 

same as above

 

Overcast afternoon under a bridge in Sweden

 

Under the same bridge,  at sunset.

 

Still under the same bridge, day sunlight. Gothenburg Sweden.

 

Midday, in the entrance of a barn. Sweden.

 

Outside a hangar, under an over head walkway. Sweden.

 

Outdoors, in a built over garage, afternoon. Palma, Quatre Bornes, Mauritius.

 

An intruding enterance, midday in the shade. Gothenburg, Sweden.

 

In a built in walkway, late afternoon. Fiskehamnen, Gothenburg, Sweden.

 

High up on a rooftop on a hill, at sunset. Coromandel, Mauritius.

 

Built over veranda, late afternoon, light filtered through trees. Palma, Quatre Bornes, Mauritius.

 

Between big trucks, afternoon. Fiskehamnen, Gothenburg.

 

In the entrance of a cave, just after sunset, gold bodypaint. Raily Beach, Thailand.

 

 

Inside a cave, afternoon, winter. Stockholm, Sweden.

 

 

After sunset, Talalla Srilanka

 

 

 

Dark lake, summer night in Sweden

 

 

Summer night in Sweden on a pontoon

 

 

Late afternoon, big curved glass roof above

 

 

 

Dance Photography

March 12, 2014 by  
Filed under Featured, Lessons, News

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet,  Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet, Photo: Ami Elsius

 

Shooting dancers in action takes precision. You need to anticipate the peak of the movement and then press the trigger just a little before the peak, to be able to capture it. Your trigger finger needs to be quicker then your eye. You need to imagine the movement before it is done and always press a little before the ”perfect shot”. If you press exactly when you think it looks the best…you have already missed the shot. The same principles goes for any type of action shots

 

To freeze movements you will need to use fast speeds and not a too shallow depth of field. Good lighting helps a lot…with high speed strobes or ambient light.

 

Good luck!

 

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet,  Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet, Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet,  Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet, Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet,  Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet, Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet,  Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet, Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet,  Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet, Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet,  Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet, Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet,  Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet, Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet,  Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet, Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet,  Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet, Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet,  Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet, Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet,  Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet, Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet,  Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet, Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet,  Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet, Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet,  Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet, Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet,  Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet, Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet,  Photo: Ami Elsius

Copenhagen Opera House, Royal Ballet, Photo: Ami Elsius

 

Retouching Skin

September 26, 2013 by  
Filed under Lessons, News

I have found that most skin retouching tutorials on the web are overdoing it. I know that many people like the skin looking totally flawless, plastic and artificial. That  look is commonly seen in  magazines and adverts now days, but most clients want a result that looks real.

If you, like myself,  want a more natural looking result, instead of the totally smooth but obviously fake effect, where you can’t tell if the skin has been retouched…this is for you.

Here’s an easy, visual, Photoshop tutorial that will take you step by step  through the process of evening out the colour and  texture of the naked skin as well as some slimming and toning….all with a natural looking result, leaving the water drops on the model intact.

 

If you don’t have photoshop allready or would like to upgrade…visit: www.adobe.com/products/photoshop  they have free trial versions as well

www.photoshop.com      check out for more tutorials, info and tips

 

I think the photos are pretty self explanatory, however you are more than welcome to post questions if there’s something unclear.

 

A drawing tablet (also called a graphics pad ordigitizing tablet) is recommended  for precision and ease of work. I use Wacom

www.wacom.com

Duplicate your background layer

Choose Liquify under the filters menu

I chose the warp tool and started  pulling in  the belly a bit

Masking the arm before retouching the double chin

 

I used again warp tool to  pull in the duble chin

 

removed the mask

and started to reduce the underarm fat

 

then the clone stamp to further slim the waistline

I used the healing brush to fix the foilage in the background, leaving the area closest to the skin untouched. Of course this is much easier if the background is white or in one colour….then it is easier to do it all in liquify

then the dodgetool to brighten up the shadows made by the belly

then picked the brush tool and copied the colour around the areas that I would like to brush in. Keep updating the colour to blend in as much as possible,  in every new area that you are woring on

you need to use a soft brush and with low opacity, it’s better to use a low opacity and paint over many times. I was careful to only brush a bit on the areas without water drops

I copied the layer and continued to brush in a more even skintone

be careful not to overdo this part

changed  the opacity to se where the water drops had  been, then picked the eraser and erased over each drop. Be careful not to erase outside the waterdrop

 

flattend the imaged, saved it and done!

 

If you only look at the right photo it looks natural, but if you look at the left you see the difference. Very useful for non commercial portraiture…in particlar for pregnant women that want to look natural with the big belly, but most often prefere not to show their extra chilos on their legs, arms, butt etc.

 

 

if you can show that you can do this to your photos to future clients, you might find it easier to find nude models…people in general tend to be vain and want to look as good as possible when they have their photos done

 

 

I did a fairly quick job just to show what is possible. It is far from perfectyly done and if I would have done it for a client I would have spent  more time making it look perfect….but still natural,

 

Good Luck!

 

 

 

 

 

Pregnant Self Portraits

November 28, 2012 by  
Filed under Lessons, News

I am now 7 months pregnant and feeling great

These photos were taken 1 month ago at 28 weeks, at my sisters summerhouse at Bohus Malmön, Sweden.

Check out other photos I have taken of Pregnant Women

http://www.behance.net/gallery/Pregnant-Beauties/2704215

or go to my site

http://www.amielsius.com/love/pregnant

Equipment used:

2 x Q-Flash Trio Strobes with wireless control and coloured gels

Canon 5D Mark II and canon lens f/4 L IS 24-105 mm

Unfortunately the shot was not planned and I had left my Manfrotto tripod at home. Instead I propped it up on a table with various supports I could find lying around….like some books a sock and a toy.

I desaturated the photos in Lightroom and then gently retouched the photos in Photoshop….like I always do with the pregnancy shots.

 

Tip when mixing natural light with strobe light:

When mixing natural light with strobe light, I always always try to make the light look natural and not like I have used a flash. Use low effect, gels and diffusers and position the strobe so it doesn’t create strange shadows that goes against the natural light source. Se photo caption for more details

 

Using natural light from the window and a strobe light with bare bulb on low effect to the right

 

 

Using natural light from the window and a strobe light on low effect to the right and a second strobe light low on the left hand side with a cold filter/gel

 

Using natural light from the window and a strobe light low on the lright hand side with a cold filter/gel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pimp your snapshots

May 31, 2011 by  
Filed under Lessons



Random, crappy snapshots can be pimped through a polaroid application. It will add an aged and dreamy feel to the images and you will notice that all of a sudden, photos that you never thought would go together makes nice albums and series. There are photos and cameras with built in functions, but if you need to convert your files there are many programs that can help you with that.


I downloaded  this really cute and probably the most authentic Polaroid feel application you will find….. for free at http://www.polaroid.net

Here are some of my random snap shots that I never dreamt of putting on my website…but looking at them like this, I start to warm to them. What do you think?

 

 

 

Make up and Light

April 25, 2011 by  
Filed under Lessons

Make up for photographers

 

Something that many amateur photographers miss, is that make up can make or break a photo. The skill of the make up artist is of course important however, the right direction and communication is crucial to manifest your vision and get the result you want.

There are some things that you as a photographer should know about light and make up. How different types of lotions, oils, foundations and powders give totally different results in different lights and angles and on different types of skin.

I will post an other article on how to get your vision across, direct teams and understand and interpret the vision of your clients…for now I will stick to  make up and light

 

 

 

Tide line means the contrast on the neck or jaw line as a result of badly applied foundation in a contrasting colour to the skin tone.

 

Make up offers endless creative possibilities. Get out and get inspired! (or stay in and flick through a magazine, a book , watch a film or browse the internet)

 

Yes that’s right, it’s useful even for photographers to have a beauty bag with the most important items. It can easily happen that your make up artist or stylist has forgot something. It’s not fun if chipped black nail polish, a shiny forehead or a badly fitted dress should ruin your shot…when it easily can be avoided. *Chicken fillets means silicon shaped as chicken fillets, to fill out a bra or top if needed. Mainly used for catalogue photos where you use skinny flat-breasted models for clothes that are made for curvier women.

 

Only apply body lotion or oil to your model if you can do it in a non-sexual way. You want to use the same approach as you would when putting sun block on your child: effective, even non sexual and totally comfortable with his/her nudity. Make sure to bend fingers and legs, arms and feet to get the make up, oil or lotion also in the creases of the elbows, knuckles, knees and heals.

To apply powder on the face, light brush strokes (tap the brush first to get rid of excess) in an outward motion from the eyebrow centre. This is to avoid brushing agains the small hairs on the face.

Highlighter is best applied to the collarbones, neck and shoulders…any part that you want to stand out a bit extra and reflect some more light

 

In practice

Here I have used 3 different light set ups and 3 different types of make up. The photos on the right are taken with the light from the left and the photos on the left are taken with the light shining straight on to the top of the hand. Here you can easily see the difference between different make ups  in different lights and with the light comming from different angles. Remember that different body parts respond different as well; ex. a oil might look good on the legs but terrible on the face. Power might work wonders on a shiny forhead but look like a joke on a hairy chest. Highlighter on the collarbones might look stunning but applied to the nose you the model might look like Rudolfs sister.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Easy studio lighting at home

April 11, 2011 by  
Filed under Lessons

If you don’t have a big space to turn in to a photo studio…it’s ok; hardly any photographer starts out with a big professional fully kitted studio. Actually, it can be beneficial to no have all the gear and facilities from the beginning…you get to improvise, be inventive and learn to adapt your lights, set up and poses to the present conditions.

 

Here’s an example of a simple studio set up taken in a home environment. Silvia, a dance teacher and performer showed up at my home in Milan (I haven’t got my own photo studio here yet) desperate to get some photos for her Burlesque classes that were about to start soon. As I was busy with other things I could only give her an hour, I had to find an easy light solution that would do the trick.

3 quuantum trio flashes and one reflector were used. Photo: Ami Elsius

I decided to use my Quuantum trio flashes with battery packs and wireless control. http://www.qtm.com/ They are small, easy to place, powerful and fast…with numerous light shaping possibilities. I have had them for less then a year and I just keep appreciating them more and more and finding new ways to use them all the time.  I worked with the standard round diffuser with filters (one red and one blue) on two flash heads and a small square soft box on a third flash.

If you have other flashes you could buy gels and attach them on to your flash to get the same effect.

How to get small spaces to work for you. Photo: Ami Elsius

 

I used the Manfrotto Event Kit  ( DIY03KIT) but in a slightly different way from what it is intended. I added a Manfrotto heavy duty flex arm ( 237 HD ) to the reflector holder (which can hold up to a 122cm diameter reflector) , which is included in the event kit; to add some hight. I used a  sunfire reflector from Lastolite

Coloured gels/filters can quickly change the mood of a place. Photo: Ami Elsius

The left flash was supplied with a deep blue filter (part of the quuntum filter kit)  and clamped on to a chair with the Manfrotto spring clamp with flash shoe ( 175F ) pointing at the reflector.The spring clamp has become a favourite; it’s ideal for photographing small spaces and interiors where a normal light support would be in the way. You can clamp in on to curtain rods, tables, doors, trees, windows etc.

In this light set up it's important to keep pointing the neutral light on the face of the model. Photo: Ami Elsius

The middle light is fitted on to an  Manfrotto 233B bracket with the 026 swivel that can rotate and move  the flash unit away up to 45 cm, which in turn is fitted on a Manfrotto black alu air cushioned mini compact stand (can be bought separate or in a 3 pack).

I used the quuantum foldable softbox for the midle light, without any coloured filters or gels.


For my third light I used my Gitzo ocean traveller with a mounted Manfrotto project/monitor holder 183, which I fitted a red light to. I pointed it through the frosted glass which made the light more pink in the tone.

From another angle. Photo: Ami Elsius

I moved the middle light from right to the left depending on the pose of the model, making sure that it was always pointing at her face.

Main light (the clear middle light with the softbox) from the left. It's hard to imagine that the photo was taken midday in a bright bedroom. Photo: Ami Elsius

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